Chacachacare Island Exploration

Historical Chacachacare Island: Abandon and left to rot

Eight miles east of the Venezuelan coast is Chacachacare Island, a location steeped in history. It is a place where one can get away from the bustle of the city and spend a relaxing day at the beach. Except for the lighthouse caretakers, the island remains abandoned, Remnants of its colourful history left to rot and overcome by nature.

          The island was first found by Christopher Columbus on August 12, 1498. He called it El Caracol (the Snail) because of its angular appearance. Of the five Boca Islands—Centipede, Gaspar Grande, Monos, Huevos, and Chacachacare—it is the biggest and farthest to the west. Cotton was once grown on the island, and some of the surviving plants can still be seen blooming along the Lighthouse Road.

In 1870, the Boca Lighthouse was built at the highest point of the island known as Morne Cabresse at 251m. The lighthouse remains in operation today and at the top of the tower, there is a lookout with views of the Gulf of Paria and Venezuela Coastline. The gentle uphill walk from the jetty to the Lighthouse is approximately 35 minutes.

In 1813, Simon Bolivar and Santiago Marino used the Island as a combat station in the liberation of Venezuela from Spanish Rule. Bolivar was given the nickname “El Libertador” however Venezuela’s independence did not last long and he was ousted in 1814. 

         Whales once populated the Gulf of Paria and the Caribbean Sea and in 1820 a Whaling Station was established on the island to dissect the hunted whales. At the time there were no restrictions on whaling, nor was there a hunting season. A steamer could capture several whales in a day each averaging 50 feet in length and producing up to 50 barrels of oil. Other whale products included bone meal, fertilizer and chicken feed. However, the decline of whales caused the Whaling Station to close down. 

In 1924, a Leprosarium was constructed to accommodate five hundred patients. The hospital wards were placed at Cocos and Saunders Bay. The Dominican Nuns, who took care of the patients, constructed a convent and church at La Chappelle’s Bay. Many of the nuns while taking care of the patients contracted the disease and died. On the cemetery grounds of the Nunnery, their tombstone still exists. It serves as a reminder of their dedication to the sick. It was like a death sentence, for a patient to be sent to the island and taken away from their families, some never to return to the outside world.  At Rust Bay, there was the Doctor’s House and at Blummer’s Bay the Nurse’s Quarters. During this period, the island was busy with activity, electricity was provided and the patients had a cinema for recreation.  In 1984 with a cure for Hansen’s disease the place was abandoned, and all left today are the ruins. Although the road, where the wards are situated is overcome by bush. The dilapidated structures of the wards, boiler rooms and hospital beds still exist. Prominent along the coast are the remnants of the Doctor’s House and the three haunted buildings of the Nunnery, the church, nuns’ quarters and kitchen. 

Located at Bandu Su Bay on the eastern end of the island there is the Salt Pond. Sea water has penetrated through the rocks to form a large pool the size of a football field. However, it is now overrun with wild bushes and mosquitoes. The salt pond was once used as the dumping ground for rubbish. 

La Tinta Bay got its name because of the colour of the sand. When translated, La Tinta is a Spanish word that means ink. The famous drug bust that happened at La Tinta Bay in 1987, where two Venezuelans were charged, Henry Ramos and Luis Britto. The case against them collapsed, and they walked free from court.

The scenic boat ride to the Island takes forty minutes from Stables Bay. On a visit to the island, one usually asks why a place with so much rich history is left abandoned. It is the ideal place where historical tours can be conducted, followed by a picnic at the beach. 

        Visitors to the island sometimes leave their garbage, and there is a need for groups to do regular cleanups. Permission is required by the Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA) to visit there. The calm and shallow waters at La Tinta and Perruquier Bay are one of the best places in T& T for a sea bath.